WITH such a wide variety of restaurants nowadays, sometimes it's good to go back to basics with some hearty pub grub.

Thankfully, those two words no longer equate to being forced to endure a rather limp burger and a side order of barely-cooked chips.

Instead, your spies enjoyed some proper home-cooked food at the Rose and Crown in Middle Mayfield with the bonus of knowing most has come from the local area.

It may be situated slightly out of the way but the small venture off the beaten track to the traditional 18th-century inn was worth it.

The ambience of a friendly local is apparent upon entering the pub, with wooden beams and a candle lit on each table adding to the welcoming feel. It was busy but the service was attentive and efficient.

The Rose and Crown prides itself on serving quality produce from local suppliers, with the sample menu on its website boasting choices including Derbyshire ham hock terrine, Tissington venison sausages, Derbyshire steak and gammon and local cheeses.

Your spy started with a very palatable chicken liver pate and toast but, if there is a criticism – and this is not just levelled at the Rose and Crown – it would be that there was too much pate or not enough toast. This is a common mistake which leaves the diner forced to choose between leaving the pate or scooping it up with the side salad.

My companion had no such concerns with a well-portioned tomato soup and a decent side order of fresh bread, both devoured with gusto.

With appetites whetted, the mains did not disappoint with salmon and a Derbyshire rump steak.

The steak was cooked to perfection and did the local herd very proud and the generous side order of real hand-cut chips had just the right level of crispiness. It's a rarity to find real, hand-cut chips these days – other eateries take note.

The large salmon fillet was served in a delicious marinade of honey, sweet chilli and lime.

After a very hearty feed, your spy opted to finish the evening with an Amaretto coffee, which came piping hot and with a good quantity of cream floating on top.

Your spy's companion, however, ploughed on but his eyes were too big for his belly as a very generous portion of white chocolate cheesecake proved to be a mouthful too many.

With a couple of notches loosed on the belt, this excellent pub grub more than lived up to its hearty ideal.

THE ROSE AND CROWN

Where: Middle Mayfield, Ashbourne.

Meal for two: Tomato soup £3.95; pate £4.95; salmon £9.95; rump steak £11.95; liqueur coffee £3.75; cheesecake £4.75. Two x J2O £1.75 each; lemonade £1.30; pint of Fosters £2.75.

Total: £46.85.

Call: 01335 342498.