FANCY an Indian? How about a Chinese, or a Thai – or maybe all three?

Such an option might not be to everyone's taste. Similarly, the prospect of an all-you-can-eat buffet doesn't always create an attractive image.

That was partly the reason Secret Service decided to book a la carte for a first visit to the new Eden Gardens restaurant, in Queen Street, Derby.

The main reason, however, was because we had been to – and thoroughly enjoyed – Eden Gardens in Allestree and wanted to see if it was as good after moving to the city centre.

The restaurant is on a prime corner plot, close enough and yet far enough away from the busiest part of the city.

What is termed the fine dining side of the business is to the left of the main entrance, a 50-seater area on the outside of a pleasant and comfortable cocktail bar and lounge.

This is on the lines of the formula that worked so well at Eden Gardens, Allestree.

The general friendliness that was a notable strength of the old restaurant has also made the transition and so has, we found, their excellent chef.

Starters were very good – tender lamb tikka on a bed of soft fried onions and peppers for your spy and crispy vegetable samosas for our companion.

With so many options, the choice of main meal was not easy but Secret Service eventually decided upon shassle chicken, strips of finely cut chicken breast in a light mint sauce.

The chicken is marinated in yoghurt and spices and the sauce, by no means dominated by the mint, was slightly sweet. The combination was not like anything your spy could recall having encountered before but it was completely sensational.

Across the table, my companion was also basking in the warmth of a good choice.

The shashlik special, apart from being very difficult to say after a pint of two of Cobra, is monkfish in a tandoori sauce, cooked with peppers, shallots, lemongrass, tomatoes and mushrooms.

Monkfish can be a bit chewy if it is not cooked properly but this dish was pronounced delicious and full of flavour.

Unquestionably, the food was every bit as good as Secret Service's visit to Allestree but if there was a criticism, it was the slow service.

The buffet restaurant on a Saturday night was quite busy at the time of our visit and, naturally, demands on the staff were high.

While it is nice to have time between courses and not be rushed, it is important not to risk leaving diners in the other restaurant feeling neglected.

Having settled the bill, it was time to take a peek at the other side.

There is seating for 150 in the buffet restaurant and, even at a busy time, the atmosphere was pleasant and unhurried.

The food – starters and mains – is set out in well-labelled tureens which are watched over constantly by the chefs and topped up regularly. Rice and noodles are brought to the table.

It was all very clean and orderly – not a hint of a rugby scrum fight over the last scraps.

This was reassuring for one who is a little wary about buffet dining and there are plainly plenty of people who have already been won over.

Having contented our- selves that the more familiar side of the business was every bit as good as we remembered at Allestree, your spy left resolving to return and sample the buffet too one day soon.

EDEN GARDENS

WHERE: Queen Street, Derby.

MEAL FOR TWO: Vegetable samosa £2.95, lamb tikka £4.50, shashlik special £14.95, shassle chicken £12.95, plain naan bread £1.70, mushroom naan bread £2.30, half of Cobra beer 2 x £1.80, coffee 2 x £1.50.

TOTAL: £45.95.

CALL: 01332 418800.