In some hostelries the term "pub grub" is an insult. That's the case at the Unicorn Inn, Newton Solney, which serves food an a la carte restaurant would be proud of.

In these tough economic times, many pubs rely on enticing customers to eat to ensure survival but there is a huge divide between those which offer heated up frozen fare and those which serve up the best they possibly can.

The Unicorn falls into the latter category. Your spy paid it a visit one chilly Saturday evening having booked just a few hours before by phone. Greeted by a warm Scottish voice, your spy was told it was always advisable to book and that Sunday lunches were particularly popular.

We arrived around 6pm when evening food service begins. The pub was already buzzing with regulars who looked at home in the traditional hostelry.

There is a small separate dining area, which was empty on arrival, so your spy was invited to choose any table. We plumped for a spot near the fire and were left to peruse the menus.

The choice was ample with around half a dozen starters including pheasant terrine with apricots and walnut bread; deep fried calamari; warm goat's cheese with sundried tomatoes and basil and locally made black pudding. Already, this pub was displaying food flair.

Your spy choose the Mediterranean breads and dipping oils appetiser. The breads were beautifully fresh, soft and warm.

Your spy's guest choose pheasant terrine. The portion was large and arrived with salad garnish, artisan breads and redcurrant dip.

A nice touch was that the chef bought the dishes to your spy's table and asked what had brought us there. It made us feel valued as customers.

The restaurant is quirky with a bookish/library flavour. The ceiling was papered in what appeared to be pages from old books and the tables (ours was a little wobbly) had a chocolate linen theme including proper napkins. Later chef returned to ask if we were cold and insisted on putting the fire on, though it was comfortably warm. It added to the homely feel.

The choice of mains included slow-roasted shank of lamb with red wine and rosemary sauce served on sweet potato mash; breast of corn fed chicken filled with garlic and parsley butter sauce with rocket and Parmesan salad; grilled fillet of teryaki salmon with spicy noodles and Unicorn Inn fish pie in a creamy tarragon sauce. These mains were mostly around £16 but there was another set of typically British pub dishes at around £10 including fish, chips and mushy peas, pies and sausage and mash. Specials on a chalkboard for a tenner also included mussels or deep fried plaice.

Your spy plumped for a vegetarian option of roasted butternut squash risotto with melting blue cheese while your spy's companion opted for ribeye steak. Guests can choose from rump, sirloin or ribeye with either diane, peppercorn or Argentinian sauce.

The dishes arrived promptly, piping hot and well presented.

The risotto was a wonderful, runny golden mixture of soft rice with chunky pieces of butternut squash. When you mixed a mouthful with the melting cheese it was divine.

Your spy's companion was surprised to receive not only a huge, succulent steak with side salad and mushrooms but also a dish of handmade chips and a steaming bowl of fresh veg – green beans, broccoli, cauliflower and carrots. Suffice to see your spy's companion could not finish it all.

Your spy struggled to finish off the risotto too. Portions are certainly generous. No-one wants to leave a restaurant feeling hungry and there is little chance of that here.

In fact, there was no room to even contemplate dessert.

So, what you have at this village inn is high quality food, friendly service and a chef who is so concerned about his guests he comes out of his kitchen when time allows to serve you personally.

The food is not cheap but you get a lot for your money and if you take advantage of some of the pub's special offer nights it is reasonable.

For example, it holds two-for-one steak nights and, on the last Friday of the month, two-for-one fish nights with the next one on Friday. February 24. As that warm Scottish voice (the chef as it happens) on the end of the phone told your spy earlier that day, it is advisable to book.

WHAT: Unicorn Inn.

WHERE: Repton Rd, Newton Solney

MEAL FOR TWO: Mediterranean breads £2.95; terrine of pheasant £5.95; ribeye steak £16.95; butternut squash risotto £10.95; two Pepsis £3, J20 £1.95; mineral water £1.80

TOTAL: £43.55

CALL: 01283 703324 or visit www.unicorn-inn.co.uk