SECRET Service had heard positive things about a new Italian in Alfreton.

But the name of the place, the rather cheesy Italianos, and the fact it was in the middle of the town, a stone's throw away from the Tesco superstore, did little to raise enthusiasm.

How wrong could I have been?

The chic black sign and the huge glass windows at the front of the restaurant give it a contemporary feel from the outside. And your spy was just as impressed with the slick interior decor.

Bright, abstract paintings adorn the sage green and cream walls and the individual booths mean you can grab a bit of privacy in a fairly open restaurant.

We were greeted warmly by our waitress, who directed us to a small seating area so we could browse the menus.

We were disappointed that she didn't ask if we wanted to order drinks immediately but this was soon rectified when we were handed an extensive wine list.

Secret Service was overwhelmed by the list of so many delicious-sounding starters and could happily have spent the night munching through the appetisers.

It was a tough choice between camembert fritto – deep-fried camembert with jelly cranberry – and the bruschetta toscana, which is toasted bread with sweet tomatoes, red onion, basil, garlic and olive oil and topped with feta cheese. I chose the camembert.

My companion was torn between prawn cocktail and portabella mushrooms with spinach and walnut. When the waitress came to take our order, it was rulate delizia – fresh water prawns and asparagus rolled in Parma ham with Marie rose sauce – which was chosen.

We barely had time for our first sip of wine before the starters arrived.

Although Secret Service was a bit concerned that the breadcrumbs coating the Camembert were bright orange, these reservations were banished after a bite of the warm, creamy cheese. The complimentary walnut bread was perfect for mopping up leftover juices from the cranberry sauce. The starter was given a thumbs up from my companion.

As well as traditional Italian dishes such as pizza and pasta, Italianos has three steak dishes to choose from and various chicken, pork and lamb options.

There are three fish dishes and the griglia miscela di vegitables – grilled aubergine, courgette and pepper topped with brie and smothered in tomato sauce.

Deciding to play it safe, Secret Service went for an 8oz sirloin steak with peppercorn, brandy and cream sauce while my companion opted for the verdure calzone, a folded pizza that resembles a Cornish pasty, with a sweetcorn, pepper, olive, red onion and mushroom filling.

We waited a little while longer for the main course – to the delight of Secret Service, who was feeling full after the hearty starters. And the mains were worth the wait. The steak was cooked – as requested – and came with big, fat chunky chips and a creamy, moreish sauce.

My companion felt the calzone was a bit soggy. The sauce was tangy and there was plenty of filling.

Dessert sounded too good to miss, especially with delights such as Strawberry Bakewell Cheesecake, Black Forest gateau and cheese and biscuits.

Your spy was tempted by the cheesecake but disappointed that it was slightly frozen in the middle. There was no Bakewell topping, just strawberries. My companion, who found the Black Forest gateau soft, spongy and with lashings of cream.

The piece de resistance was a Baileys coffee, which contained just the right amount of liqueur. Secret Service pointed out that the cheesecake failed to tick all the boxes and was offered an apology and full refund by the friendly owner, who seemed genuinely embarrassed.

Although the dessert did disappoint, Italianos as a whole didn't, and your spy has booked to go again.

ITALIANOS

WHERE: King Street, Alfreton.

MEAL FOR TWO: Breaded camembert £3.95, rulata delizia £4.95, calzone £8.95, steak £13.95, desserts 2 x £3.95. Drinks - bottle of pink pinot grigio £13.95, peroni £3.10, Baileys coffee 2 x £4.80.

TOTAL: £62.40.

CALL: 01773 831990.