Sushi bar offers a sizzling service delivered with style

By lsterling we go under cover to check out the moon sha restaurant

SECRET Service slipped into Moon Sha, the new sushi bar and teppanyaki restaurant in Derby, getting early seats on a quiet weekday evening for a tailor-made meal.

The layout of the restaurant is spacious and it feels almost too large to fill, with its vast shiny black surfaces and big windows which look onto the ring road.

Our welcome was warm, yet we were not sure where to sit at first until the waiter showed us to two stools on the edge of a long bar which surrounded the chefs cooking dinner in the centre of the room.

Opting for a set menu each, we preferred to let the experts dictate what we could munch on, so we could sit back and relax as the show began.

In total, there were three chefs in the cooking area strutting their stuff. They delighted in entertaining us as they systematically performed their special culinary tricks. Teppanyaki is the Japanese art of cooking fresh food in full view of the diner on an iron griddle called a teppan and served immediately. This is perfect for diners who like to know where their food comes from or how fresh it really is.

We both began with a salad served with soup. The crispy cut salad was presented in a tiny bowl accompanied by a small dark cup with a lid containing miso soup. We used our chopsticks to stir up the soup to bring it to life, as it had settled on its short journey to us, and then sipped it slowly to savour the flavour.

This was followed by delicately sliced vegetables that had been fried in tempura batter and served with a sweet and slightly spiced dip. The crispy strips provided a neat and simple starter with a fresh bite. The alternative set meal, the Matsu Set, begins the same as the vegetarian option, with soup and salad. Following that were a trio of small dumpling parcels. We weren't sure what was in them. They were certainly fun, yet their flavour wasn't memorable.

All of this so far had arrived from the kitchens, which are out of sight, in contrast to the drama unfolding before us, of flames, sizzling ingredients and egg-juggling. Browning in front of our very eyes on the hot surface were fresh fillets of salmon and enormous tiger prawns. The aroma of the oils mixing with the sauces and eggs the chef was flicking in to the mix of rice alongside it, was divine.

Tofu chunks arrived next, straight from the large, flat hotplate in front of us, with a dark sauce that was mainly soy. To accompany the tofu there were freshly sautéed asparagus tips and some perfectly moist mushrooms. The asparagus was tender and juicy, served in a simple dish with a pretty garnish. Chicken in a dark sauce was next on the menu. It was tender and almost sweet, accompanied by Udon noodles and egg-fried rice.

The style in which the dishes were served reminded me of Spanish tapas. Each dish was modestly sized, filling us up gradually with a wonderful selection of contrasting textures and fresh flavours.

For dessert, we chose the orange sorbet and a dish which sounded quite innovative – vanilla ice cream, deep fried in sesame seeds.

The waiter told us it would be served hot but, when it arrived, it was neither warm nor hot and sadly, just tasted like a sort of fried bread coating on a cold bit of ice cream. It would have been more interesting to have it served hot, like a baked Alaska. Either way I would avoid this sweet dish again.

For those who would rather choose their dishes from the a la carte menu there are plenty of other options. These include sashimi (thinly sliced raw fish), various soba noodle dishes, sushi and mixed dishes to order, from £11.90, up to £34.90 for a platter.

On balance, the meal was an enjoyable and entertaining experience. We felt very glamorous as we received our stylish dishes from cooks who are so passionate about their art. The men with the spatulas and potions truly made our meal memorable.

The whole room was clapping and cheering as they succeeded in their flamboyant feats. We felt as if each plate had been designed for us especially, which made the overall experience very attractive and personal.

MOON SHA

WHERE: 4 Friary Street, Derby.

MEAL FOR TWO: Matsu Set (regular set menu) £23.90; Ume Set (vegetarian set menu) £19.90; orange sorbet £4; vanilla ice cream £4.50; diet Pepsi £1.80; bottle of Holston beer £2.80

TOTAL: £56.90.

CALL: 01332 343288.