A splendid place to go if you like a witty welcome

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Friday, March 12, 2010
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This is Derbyshire

WE all know Matlock Bath as our little land-locked seaside town, buzzing on a Bank Holiday, with its cable cars, the Heights of Abraham, Gulliver's Kingdom and hundreds of motorcyclists.

The town and its surrounds are also a splendid place for a beer buff to visit, especially if you're happy to do some walking, and not least because you can pop up there quickly on the train from Derby.

I set out recently with my daughter, her fiancĂ©, their dog and Bob Steel's excellent book, Peak District Pub Walks, aiming for a circuit which took us from Matlock, to Matlock Bath, Cromford and Bonsall. Well, the last two will have to wait – we didn't get further than Matlock Bath.

The walk takes you across the hill under Riber Castle to drop into Matlock Bath and, passing the White Lion in Starkholmes up on the hill, we kept going and took our first pint in the County & Station, where the welcome was witty and warm.

"Do you mind if we bring the dog in?" I asked. "Yes," said the landlord, "I mind very much. But you can!" Then the face cracked into a smile.

A vowel-free beer here, Cwrw, from Welsh brewery Evans & Evans. "Pronounced 'queer'," dead-panned the landlord. A pleasant bitter, though.

Stroll along the shop-fronts from there, take the path steeply up by the closed Fishpond pub and you are rewarded by arrival at the glorious Temple Hotel on the hill.

This Grade II listed Georgian hotel maintains a public bar which transports you into the cosiest of locals, with an open fire and a selection of beers from local breweries.

On our Sunday afternoon visit, we were invited to help ourselves, free, to cheese, crackers and cakes on a side-table. I wouldn't think this happens every day but it was a welcoming touch.

We chose from Bradfield Farmer's Bitter (the brewery is just outside Sheffield), Amber Ales' Outrams Bitter, Spire Stout, from Chesterfield, and the multi-award-winning Wren's Nest bitter from Howard Town Breweryin Glossop. Usually, there's something from Thornbridge as well. The latter two beers were fine and, if you haven't discovered the Temple Hotel before, my recommendation is strong.

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